Friday, August 13, 2010

Napa Valley Trip Summer 2010

On the afternoon of July 31st, Vinny Bertone came to the house to pick up Amy D., Sue and myself and at 7:30 that evening we took off from JFK for California and what we hoped would be a fun trip to Napa. It turned out to be more than, I think, any of us thought possible. The flight went fine, the baggage pick up easy, the rental car a quick pick up (albeit a very small Mustang for three people and three suitcases) and a quick  overnight at the Holiday Inn Express at the Oakland Airport. We woke up the next morning, had some very bad coffee at the hotel and left for Napa. We had a great breakfast at Gillwood's in St. Helena (I had asparagus benedict that was to die for) along with superb coffee and then made our way a little back up the road to the incredible Harvest Inn.
The Spectacular Harvest Inn!


We checked in, relaxed by the pool for a while and then after the requisite happy hour (having stopped at V.Sattui for "supplies") we were off to dinner at Mustard's Grill where the food was wonderful (Amy and I had THE Mongolian Pork Chop, Sue a marinated Hanger Steak and I started with excellent crab cakes). Back to the pool and the spa and off to bed.

The Mongolian Pork Chop @ Mustard's Grill



Laura and Tracy checked in late that night and we met them for breakfast (Harvest Inn has a wonderful room overlooking their vineyard where a bounteous breakfast is served each morning) and the journey began in earnest. Day 1 was pure debauchery: Four vineyards (Joseph Phelps, Plumpjack, Turnbull, Cakebread) where we each had individual tastings and no lunch (Turnbull put us over the edge with our host constantly refilling glasses after I joined their wine club). Dinner that night was at Press and while the service and the food were both excellent, we were all in a coma at that point however we did manage to rally and hit the pool and spa yet again that evening (yes with more wine along for the ride).
Cakebread Wines, stop #4 on Day 1


Day 2 brought on Sue and my anniversary (#8 for those keeping score) and Groth and Opus One (the 2005 much preferred over the 2006 though both fabulous)  along with an incredible dinner at Michael Chiarello's Bottega.
Groth
Opus One


On the way into Bottega for our 8th Anniversary :)


Day 3 took us to Calistoga where we visited Chateau Montelena (joined another wine club), had a GREAT tour at Schramsberg (along with a seated tasting of multiple bubblies and their signature J.Davies red, and YES another wine club joining), then we stopped to taste at the Wine Garage (already a wine club member there) and sang along to the Partridge Family and Sammy Davis Jr. with the Candy Man playing in the background. Happy as ever, we went back to the Harvest Inn, continued with another Happy Hour, and then off to CIA-Greystone for dinner. (This was the ONLY hiccup on the trip as the service was horrible yet the wine and the food were fine). Yes, back to the spa for an "after party"
Chateau Montelena


Outside Schramsberg





Day 4 was a day to catch up a bit. Tracy and Laura did a LOT of walking, Sue and Amy spent some time in St. Helena just walking in town and I spent about 2 hours flopping at the pool. Sue, Amy and I had a picnic at V.Sattui and met Tracy and Laura at Rubicon Estates for a seated tasting in the member's lounge (yup, already a wine club member there as well, and Tracy joined that one). Dinner was at Brix where the food and the service and the wine (Honig Cab) were spectacular, spa and pool followed as seemed to be the routine.

Tasting @ Rubicon Estates


Day 5 was a free form fun day. We started off at Markham where they were also displaying some original photos of early Rolling Stone covers along with the actual covers, their wine was ok. Then we stopped at Freemark Abbey and had another seated tasting which blew us away. Their 2005 Bouche Cab was a fast favorite of almost everyone, so much so that Tracy bought a bottle (which of course, we consumed that evening). We then had a most incredible lunch next door at the Silverado Brewing Company. An Heirloom Tomato sandwich on sourdough bread was outstanding and just the right touch for the afternoon. We then continued to another seated tasting at Duckhorn, which we were all anticipating but turned out to be good but not nearly as good as Freemark Abbey. However a friend I had not seen in 4 years, Stephen Baldwin, who now teaches in San Fran area, met us at Duckhorn and we had a blast catching up and just shooting the breeze. He came back with us to the Harvest Inn to continue Happy Hour and we had so much fun that we canceled the scheduled dinner at Ubuntu in Napa and just continued with chips and salsa that Sue and Amy had found at a farmer's market, and some bread and cheeses from Dean and Deluca and continued laughing into the evening. (Spa and Pool of course, after Stephen made his way home).
Stephen and Kevin @ Duckhorn


Day 6 was equally amazing. Sue's brother David (a member)  managed to get us into the super secret Bohemian Grove in Monte Rio (about an hour drive, thanks again to Capt. Tracy the driver for all of the week!!!!!). We were not allowed to take pictures of any kind, we could have no electronics, and Amy and I were approached by a security guard just "checking" on us,  after David had parked by a clearly hidden  motion sensor (and the two of us "interlopers" were alone as the rest of the group were climbing up a long path) . It was quite the experience to be able to go to a place where presidents, politicians, captains of industry and famous show biz people hang out once a year in guarded secrecy. We shared wine, bread, cheese, snacks and David and his friend Martin sang for us. A truly memorable day in a memorable week.

Day 7 saw Tracy and Laura leave early for a flight and Amy, Sue and I meander around on the way to our redeye flight. We stopped at Grgich Hills for a tasting (of course), had lunch in Yountville, at Hurley's (reco from Laura and Tracy) and then one last tasting at Domaine Chandon. A reasonable trip back to the airport (in mixed traffic) and the flight took off on time. It was tough sleeping and it took us about 2 days to get back to normal (Amy the animal went to a Yankee game that very afternoon....nice to be young...).

Here is a final list of the places we "tasted" pretty much in order....






V.Sattui

Joseph Phelps

Plumpjack

Turnbull

Cakebread

Groth

Opus One

Schramsberg

Chateau Montelana

Wine garage

Rubicon

Markham

Freemark Abbey

Duckhorn

Grgich Hills

Domaine Chandon

Bottom line, an incredible trip that could not have been any better, with great people, in a wonderful setting and a spectacular hotel. I'll refer back to this periodically in the dead of winter when I'm dragging :)

"A hole in the water, surrounded by fiberglass, into which one pours money"